The Materials

Oilskin

by Halley Stevensons

Why Oilskin?

Oilskin is a traditional fabric — cotton finished with a oil or wax coating that makes it resistant to water and wind, while staying breathable. Unlike synthetic membranes, the protection comes entirely from natural sources. No plastic layers. No chemical treatments. Just a natural barrier — the same principle found in leaves, seeds, and animal fur for excellent performance.

The wax coating of the fabric responds to temperature. In the warmth it softens, allowing the fabric to breathe. In the cold it firms up, becoming windproof and resilient. This makes it well suited for outdoor use in all seasons — including as a waterproof dog coat. Material that moves with the body rather than against it.

It is a fabric that doesn't wear out in the usual sense. It changes. Softens. Develops a patina shaped by use. And when the water-repellency fades, it can simply be re-waxed — rubbed in by hand, gently warmed, and restored to full performance. No specialist cleaning, no machine washing needed, no replacement. Just care. That is how a piece made from oilskin can last for years, even decades. Find out how to care for your garments in our Material Care Guide.

The fabric is produced using low-impact processes, often making use of by-products that would otherwise go to waste. A quieter, more considered way of manufacturing.

This is why I chose it. Not only for how it performs, but for how it lasts — and how it carries the traces of use.

Why Halley Stevensons?

Halley Stevensons is an independent British mill with over 150 years of expertise in waxed cotton and weatherproofed fabrics. Their knowledge is refined over generations, tested against the realities of use.

Every fabric undergoes rigorous performance testing to ensure it does what it promises: protect, breathe, and last. Not for a season — for years of wear.

Their cotton is responsibly sourced, guided by the Organic Content Standard and the Better Cotton Initiative. Manufacturing is deliberately low-impact: the waxes are simply heated for application and cooled for applying — no waste, no discharge. As certified bluesign® partners, they meet the highest standards for environmental responsibility in textile production.

Garments made from their fabrics are designed to be maintained, re-waxed, and worn again. Find out how to care for your garments in our Material Care Guide.

Or watch a video on how to re-wax your oilskin on Halley Stevensons´ website. Click here

Made slowly. Made responsibly. Made for life with dogs.

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